Following 12 devastating days of warfare between Iran and Israel, a tentative ceasefire announced on Monday has triggered a slow, hopeful return to Tehran. The war, which began on June 13 with Israeli air strikes targeting Iranian nuclear sites, resulted in at least 610 deathsmost of them civiliansand mass displacement. As Israeli strikes intensified and warnings from international officials rang out, hundreds of thousands fled Tehran, turning once-bustling roads into escape routes.
Now, the highways into the capital are again filling with returning families. Many express relief at being back in their own homeseven amid uncertainty. Nika, a 33-year-old graphic designer, compared the experience to “heaven,” despite her lingering fear that the war could resume at any moment. Students like Saba described the trauma of watching their structured lives unravel under the threat of airstrikes, followed by isolation and disruption as education and jobs were put on hold.
For some, like Hamed, the return is fraught with anxiety. Having just come back from displacement in southeastern Iran, he fears having to leave all over again. Others, like businessman Kamran, recounted the unbearable stress of surviving nightly bombardments, which eventually forced them to seek safety.
While life is visibly returning to Tehranwith reopened cafes and businessesthe toll on infrastructure is severe. The Israeli military claims it hit over 100 sites across Iran during the conflict. Damage across multiple provinces, including East Azerbaijan, Isfahan, and Kermanshah, underscores the scope of the devastation.
Still, there is a sense of cautious resolve. As companies recall staff and people rebuild routines, Tehran is stirring back to lifeeven under the shadow of a fragile peace.
Despite the ceasefire, the situation in Iran remains tense and precarious. Both Israel and Iran have accused each other of violating the agreement. Iran reported fresh Israeli strikes even after the ceasefire began, including an attack on Evin Prison in Tehran, while Israel said it intercepted more Iranian missiles. These continued exchanges suggest that the ceasefire may not hold, making residents fearful of further violence.
The emotional and physical toll is apparent. Keyvan Saket, a well-known musician, discovered that his home had been hit while he was sheltering elsewhere. Though one missile failed to detonate, the impact was devastatingshattered windows, mangled doors, and wrecked appliances. “With every fibre of my being, I despise war and those who ignite it,” Saket said. His story is one of many across a capital still shaken.
Tehran’s residents are trying to resume their lives amid the uncertainty. As remote work ends and public spaces reopen, traffic fills the streets again, and a cautious optimism emerges. “Seeing others return, watching cafes reopen, and life flowing back into the city lifts my heart,” said Saba, a student who fled earlier in the war.
But the sense of normalcy is fragile. Many have returned to damaged or unsafe homes. Others are haunted by memories of sirens, explosions, and sleepless nights. The Iranian government reports over 1,400 people injured and extensive damage across several provinces.
As residents attempt to reclaim a rhythm, they do so knowing the peace could collapse at any moment. For many, the return home is not just a physical act, but a statement of resilience. Still, the future is deeply uncertain, with the risk of renewed fighting casting a long shadow over Iran’s capital and its people.
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